the subtle fever breaks-
clarity!
The revolting unity
between
this congenial illusion
and
this congenital self-doubt
has at long last
severed,
and like the storm that brews for days
this
and the yearning is
musings of a wandering heart
this cavalier's crack
hides kids with elephantitis
while drive-by hair salons lurk in the shadow
of the ever-present, all-seeing, ever-phallic minaret
and don't get me started on those domes, my brothers,
that float atop your halls of prayer
serene in pastoral green
while you disguise the real ones behind reams of cloth
in an attempt to stifle their owners
with the necessities of meticulous propriety
if you really wish to own them
to sport their bits as well as yours on your edifice of patriarchy
in a proud display of biological divisiveness
consider the implications of your real estate desires
since there's no such category as trannie adjacent
you scholars of man and God
who rage your voices to the heavens
(whether or not the heavens listen)
you know nothing of woman, your constant listener
hide her eyes behind a veil
and her thoughts-
which are wont
to edify your unfinished polemic
of a life-
will be veiled from you
Sitting in the Ambrose library today, I felt my emotional state slip back to where it idled during my years as a university student. It struck me that my defining characteristic was jealousy, and that that jealousy usually sprang from that which I had no power to know: relationships I couldn't categorize, personal histories I couldn't read, those things left unsaid that tantalized me with their endless unrealized possibilities... I had just been reading essays on the formation of Israel, the first Arab-Israeli war, propagandistic early Israeli history, and the class struggles between Ashkenazim and Sephardim/Mizrahim, and everything synthesized under the green glow of my experientially remembered consuming jealousy. This came to me, and since I've been such a delinquent in my blogging of late (big surprise), I decided to share it with you, my dear Internet and friends.
Folklore is tenderizing my brain
with the incessancy of envy
Eretz
you are and have ever been
a beautiful, mysterious woman
the Levantine Helen of Troy-
and imperishable
The possessive man is consumed
obsessed
driven mad when he considers
who had you first
and so your twin lovers
your conqueror, your conquered
rally armies in the night
in the name of monopoly
since
first love is the only poetic choice, after all
I have been cognizant of their struggles
illuminated the points
where their arguments from entitlement fell apart
I was your dispassionate reporter
but now I feel it
feel the pull
as green as Jezreel
I wrestle with Iago and feel myself renamed
as
Israel the primeval wrestler
beckons to me from shared identity
and I insinuate myself
into the split
personalities of your sinful
suitors
my jealousy brings clarity
You are the righteous temptress
the siren song that pulls
these thousand ships
from every direction
to a shared shipwreck
at the altar of paradise
This is difficult.
I'm sitting on my bed at the Ron Beach Hotel in Tiberias, Israel, watching the light fade over the Sea of Galilee. I'm listening to Bob Dylan. I've just finished packing-- more efficiently than I ever have before, so that I can put everything back in place after Israeli airport security folk rummage through my belongings and interrogate me as they will no doubt do-- to go back home. We leave in two hours to take the trek to Tel Aviv for our 5 am flight out of Ben Gurion.
I have absolutely no desire to leave, and that's a predicament I have never before faced when setting home from an adventure. Last year at the end of the England trip, I thought I would go insane if I didn't get back to my bed and my routine and my friends, and that trip only lasted two weeks. Now I've been gone for five weeks, travelling through countries whose cultures are so very different from mine, whose languages don't even share my language's alphabet, and whose inhabitants stare at me as though my walking down the street is nude and/or heretical performance art.
But I love it here. I love the sound of strangers in the street arguing in Arabic. I love living in the tension between hope and despair. I love not thinking about myself. I love sharing food between six people. I love putting za'atar on everything. I love thinking about how much water I'm using and where it comes from. I love it so much here that I find it hard to remember anything that I love about Canada, and I don't know what to do with that feeling.
I have never been one to miss people when I go away. I get pangs of remembrance from time to time, but I've grown so accustomed to lacking the people I love even when I'm at home that lacking more people when I'm not at home is really no problem. Listening to the people in my group talk about going home makes me wonder what's wrong with me. They are all sad to be leaving, but just a little bit more excited to get back home to their loved ones and a sense of normalcy. I envy them that. My desire to be here is outweighing my every other impulse.
But I think I can probably trace my reticence back to my fear of returning home and falling into exhausted ambivalence. I have done that so many times in the past, and I have always hated myself for it eventually. But what makes my desire to come back and study in Jerusalem different from my other dreams is that I don't think it would be just for me. I think that I would become a better person, a person who plumbs the depths of the world's troubles and lives for something greater than herself, if I were to follow the path that I am seeing in my mind now. I think there's something to that.
Maybe being gone for longer than ever and in more foreign conditions than ever has simply made me forget what it's like to have a home and a family (and a refrigerator, and a washing machine, and my own bathroom, and crackers, and movie nights, and nice footwear, and men who aren't named Hannah, and people who obey traffic laws, and, and...). But whatever the reason for my current inner state, I hope that it will not hinder me but propel me forward into the unknown, into the unimagined future, into the expanse of possibility that I can feel at the tips of my fingers when I consider how many paths are continuously converging in this world and how little I know about them.
What I want is to be anchored, yet nomadic; I have seen that life is as possible in Be'er Sheva as it is in Dan, that hope still flows abundantly in the dry and desolate places, and, moreover, that the wanderer is always welcome in this land where nothing is ever certain, where even the stones compete one with another, and where history can't repeat itself because it never finished a single phrase.
It is easier to accept the life of the purposeful wanderer when Bedouins and their tea are in the picture, that I know for sure.
I think it might feel easier if I'd had an opinion on the conflict before coming here
I am just so monumentally saddened by how evident it is that there is no solution, no compromise possible
anything anyone does or could do is just salt in someone's wound
but tonight I witnessed Jerusalem Day celebrations at the Western Wall
they're commemorating the capture of the Wall by Israel from Jordan during the Six-Day War
the Hasidic men were dancing and singing at the tops of their voices
and I remembered the longing I felt all throughout my childhood for a tradition that went back as far as Judaism, a tradition that hadn't changed
I remembered all those years of reading nothing but Potok
I remembered yearning, gut-wrenching yearning to have been born into an identity
and I saw the joy in their faces as they celebrated having reclaimed the epicentre of their homeland, even though that epicentre is still incomplete; it is the closest they can come today to what was once the temple, but it is not the temple
and I saw the policemen
and I saw the army
guns and guns and guns
and I walked through the security gates
and I thought of Isaiah and Lamentations
and the words of Jesus to the women of Jerusalem
and Revelation
and Weep No More
and And God Shall Wipe Away All Tears
and how the Zionists obviously hope to bring about the healing of the land and the restoration of the land, to fulfill the ultimate purpose of the land, by bringing Judaism back home to Jerusalem
but that with all that has happened since 1948, I cannot believe the establishment of Israel to be the fulfillment of biblical prophecy; I don't think that those prophecies will be fulfilled until the day when heaven and earth are finally renewed, because something like that can't be forced
and I was overcome with the hopelessness of the situation, the sense that the killing and fear will never end
that two groups of people not just in Israel and the Palestinian Territories but all over the world seem incapable of achieving peace, and that every act from one party will always result in retaliation and payback from the other party.
and I hope it gets easier to deal with, but at the same time I think that that would make it seem less important somehow. I don't want to feel less strongly, even though what I'm feeling is changeable at best and ambiguous at worst.
May 6, 2010
This evening the most wonderful thing happened.
I arrived back at the hotel after an exhilarating cab ride from the souk in downtown Amman. I had been shopping in the souk for about three hours with Bill, Laurie, and Nathan. While there, I discovered many interesting things, including numerous brightly embroidered kaftans (one of which I purchased pour moi), pungent halal meats, baby-and/or travel-sized hookah pipes, and that Jordanian men are in fact no better behaved than Syrian men. I grew quite appalled at the openness with which they gawked at me, and also began to deeply regret opting for walking shorts that exposed my knees. This time, instead of only openly staring at my face and hair, they gave me intensely un-subtle once-overs that featured sometimes-prolonged forays into the Hannah's Legs Appreciation Society. The thing that keeps on alternately amusing and astounding me is that these men don't seem to realize that I can see them looking at me. ANYWAY. One of the foundational points of the story is the contrast that this scenario makes with the scenario to come.
So, I returned to the hotel from the souk. After I had freshened up a bit and tried on my kaftan (hilarious!), I returned to the lobby in order to find myself some delicious Western-Jordanian fusion buffet. But when the elevator door opened, my ears were greeted by the most delightful cacophony of drumming, clapping, and joyful singing. My curiosity was piqued and there was only one cure! I easily discerned that the source of the jamboree was the grand staircase descending from the lobby to the basement; every step was covered with Arab men, women, and babies who were watching the ruckus below. Now, gentle readers, I know that you are wondering, What ruckus, Nans? Well, gentle readers, you are in luck since I am about to assuage your curiosity.
At the bottom stair a woman was standing in a white dress and white hooded cape- obviously, she was a bride. But she was standing alone. In front of her there was a crazy mess of jubilation: four men dressed in pin-striped bedouin kaftans and headdresses who were dancing and singing in response to two other bedouin-clad young men; all the young men present dancing with their arms up, clasping each other's hands, letting loose to an insane degree; two men playing complicated rhythms on hand drums; four young members of the bridal party standing still, holding tall candles and wearing sleeveless white over-embellished dresses. The song went on for about fifteen minutes, without a sign of boredom or exhaustion from any of its participants. I have seen celebrations on tv, but I have never been in the same room as one. I have never celebrated like that. I have never seen honest, exuberant, ecstatic happiness like that up close. The people standing next to me were intrigued; I was choking back tears.
Later that night I started thinking about hospitality. I don't think that's too far a leap from the idea of celebration. I raised the topic with my meal partner, and it spurred on the greatest conversation I've had in a very long time. We exchanged numerous stories from our lives until we landed on altogether different topics, but yet somehow managed to retain a foundational layer that united all our thoughts. I think that most people who spend any consequential amount of time with people who suffer in extreme poverty will come back home with stories of these people's overwhelming generosity and hospitality. I doubt that I will forget the story this friend of mine told me about her time in India seven years ago. She was with a group of college students who were going door to door in isolated villages and talking about their lives as Christians. Obviously throughout this venture they came face to face with the many facets of destitution. Many of the people they met invited the group in for chai, but one of the families actually invited them to have dinner in their home. My friend tells me that this family had absolutely nothing save one chicken that provided them with eggs, and this chicken they killed and cooked in order to feed these Canadian students they had just met. That is hospitality, a kind of hospitality I have never heard of or encountered myself in North America. I think we have come to misunderstand the definition of hospitality; we have stripped it down to the point of rendering it synonymous with welcome or hosting. To be a host takes no spiritual fortitude; it requires no faith whatsoever. Hospitality on the other hand depends entirely on unwavering faith in a good Provider. It also requires the giver to be free of concern for material goods, and yet to be simultaneously aware of those goods' value to another person. It requires perceptiveness and selflessness. The bedouin people of the Middle East are known for their hospitality. They live a nomadic existence in the desert, in the wild, or in the outskirts of society, and because of this lifestyle they have few possessions. But if a traveller stumbles upon a bedouin tent, the owners of that tent will without fail welcome the traveller into their midst and offer her tea, food, and a place to spend the night. Only after she has spent three nights among them will the bedouins ask the traveller where she came from or where she is going. The need, not the reasons for it, are the bedouins' concern.
Hospitable acceptance such as this requires a great deal of grace; grace requires freedom, and freedom calls for celebration. It is no mystery and no surprise that the contemporary West is content without grace. We are pretty content with ourselves and attribute our every success to our own intelligence, skill, and effort. We think that we are beyond grace, but as I have stated, we can only receive freedom once we have opened ourselves, even relinquished our selves, to the grace of God.
Leaning on that bannister at the Geneva Hotel, I was overcome with the hope that my culture will one day be able to celebrate in a similarly unabashed way. I was struck by the wedding as a microcosmic example of Eastern and Western culture. Our weddings are often contrived, micromanaged, straight-laced, and artificial, and as a result they tend to come across as boring, awkward, and meaningless. They are so controlled that they belie the truth behind it all: it is the continual grace of God that will keep a couple together until death. Without God, all the hard work in the world will eventually come to nothing.
Yeah, not quite the same as chauvinism and hummus.